Category Archives: Travel

Landfall in Spain

Immature Spanish eagle (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

6 September 2024: Day 0, Arrive in Seville, Spain WINGS Spain in Autumn
Click here to see (generally) where I am today.

Today I will land twice on the Iberian peninsula, at Lisbon, Portugal and Seville, Spain. It is the only home of the Spanish eagle* (Aquila adalberti), pictured above.

If all goes as planned I will land in Seville at 3:40pm Central European Summer Time (9:40am in Pittsburgh). Tonight our group will spend a night near the airport, then set out early tomorrow for our birding adventure. Since we won’t have time to study Spain’s culture and history, I’ll use this opportunity to describe the towns where we’ll be staying, marked on the WINGS map below.

embedded Google map from WINGS Birding Tours

Our trip is entirely within Andalusia, the autonomous community that covers southern Spain. Located between Europe, Africa, the Atlantic Ocean, and the Mediterranean Sea, Andalusia has attracted immigrants, traders and conquerors throughout its history including ancient Iberians, Celts, Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths and Arabs. We will see their influences in the towns we visit.


Seville

Points A, B & G on the map, our tour will spend one night near the airport at the start of the trip. At the end I will stay one night at the same hotel before my 6:30am flight home the next day. We will not see much of Seville.

Aerial view of Seville, Spain looking north in 2008 (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Seville is the fourth largest city in Spain and its only inland port. Founded in the 8th century BC in the Guadalquivir River Valley (the “frying pan of Spain”) summers are long, hot and dry (average 97°F in July, 88°F in September). Seville’s history is evident in its famous buildings, two of which are pictured here — one Catholic, one Muslim.

Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See -or- Seville Cathedral, southeast (photo from Wikimedia Commons)
Alcázar of Seville palace complex built during Islamic rule (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Chipiona

Faro de Chipiona (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Point C on the map: 2 nights.

Chipiona is on the Atlantic coast near the mouth of the Guadalquivir River where the Salmedina Rocks are a hazard to navigation. The Romans built a lighthouse there and named the town for the Roman Consul who commissioned it. The present lighthouse, built in 1867, is the tallest in Spain and 5th tallest in the world.

Chipiona’s riverfront is packed with ancient buildings including Chipiona Castle, built in the 13th century.

Chipiona Castle at dusk (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

The town has a popular beach on its Atlantic waterfront where highs in July are 84°F, in September 81°F. Needless to say, the birds are on the river side.

Chipiona beach on the Atlantic (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Tarifa

View of Morocco and the Strait of Gibraltar as seen from Tarifa (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Point D on the map: 5 nights.

Tarifa beach and the Strait of Gibraltar at night (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

The southernmost point in Europe and gateway to Africa, Tarifa is only 8.1 miles (13 km) from Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar. The wind blows here. A lot! Which means warm weather can feel downright cold.

Kitesurfing in Tarifa, October 2011 (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

There are two types of wind in Tarifa: the windsurfer-friendly Levante (that comes in from the east, usually warmer and at it’s best during summer) and the Poniente (blowing in from the west, cooler from the ocean and more common during winter), which is best for kite surfers. Due to the force and consistency of windy days, Tarifa has hundreds of wind turbines. Interesting fact: in 2013, Spain was the first country in the world to rely on wind energy as its top energy source. Visiting Tarifa, and experiencing the velocity (and damage) of the wind firsthand, it’s no wonder why.

Travel-Ling: The winds of Tarifa

Because of wind and location, Tarifa is also a great place to watch fall migration. The bird observation post described at this link is at the pin drop on the map. Zoom the map to see the surrounding area.

We will also take a pelagic tour (see example at Birding the Strait) and go on a whale watch.


Ronda

Ronda view from the air (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Point E on the map, 2 nights.

In the province of Malaga, Ronda is at 2,460 ft so its climate is cooler. July high temperatures average 83°F, highs in September are 77°F.

Ronda is known for its cliffside location and a deep canyon that carries the Guadalevín River and divides the town. It is one of the towns and villages that are included in the Sierra de las Nieves National Park.

Wikipedia: Ronda

The Puento Nuevo bridge is where I hope to see red-billed choughs (Crows With Red Beaks).

Puento Nuevo bridge seen from below (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Osuna

Osuna, Spain (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Point F on the map, 1 night.

Though Osuna is built on a hilltop it is in the Guadalquivir watershed with hot-weather plains below. High temperatures in Osuna average 94°F in July and 85°F in September. Osuna is our last stop before returning home via Seville Airport.

* The bird pictured at top is an immature Spanish eagle coming in for a landing. Our trip checklist has it as the “Spanish imperial eagle.” Birds of the World lists the Spanish eagle and the Imperial eagle as a separate species.

Gone Birding in Southern Spain

Black Kites (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

5 September 2024: Day -1, En route to Seville, WINGS Birding Spain in Autumn

For the past two years I’ve watched videos of fall migration at the Strait of Gibraltar and have longed to witness it for myself. Today I’m following my dream and flying to Spain to join the WINGS Birding Tour: Spain in Autumn, 7-17 September 2024.

For the migratory birds of western Europe the Iberian peninsula (Spain + Portugal) is the last stop before Africa on fall migration. The peninsula naturally funnels birds to its southernmost point, Tarifa, only 8.1 miles (13 km) from Morocco.

Globe map highlighting location of Iberian peninsula an Western European autumn flyway (map from Wikimedia Commons, markup by Kate St. John)

In poor weather birds wait in Spain for favorable winds to cross the gap between the continents. Last year nearly 150,000 daytime migrants flew over the Strait of Gibraltar in the second week of August, though almost all of them were just two species: black kites and white storks. Here’s what the black kites (Milvus migrans) look like while they wait to cross the Strait.

embedded video from Birding The Strait on YouTube

Now that it’s early September the weekly numbers are lower but the diversity is higher with the addition of many other species including black storks, booted eagles, short-toed eagles, marsh harriers, osprey and lesser kestrels. Meanwhile there are plenty of migratory songbirds feeding and resting during the day before they cross the Strait at night.

Our trip will take us in a big circle from Seville to Tarifa and back. Along the way we’ll visit marshes, mountains and coastal hotspots. We’ll make two pelagic trips and spend five days and nights in Tarifa.

Iberian peninsula, Spain & Portugal, with German place names; pink circle is the location of the WINGS tour (map from Wikimedia Commons)

The trip checklist includes 192 species, 73 of which are potential Life Birds(*). The only reason my “potential” list is not higher is that I saw many migratory European birds in Southern Africa in January.

Here are 12 of the many species I hope to see. Yes, white storks are on this list because I missed them in Africa.

(photos from Wikimedia Commons)

Because of the 6-hour time zone difference and our all-day birding schedule I’ve written 14 days of articles in advance. I’ll post to Facebook and X (Twitter) when I get a chance but I can’t guarantee it. If you don’t see me on social media, look for my latest posts here on the blog’s home page. For now, I’m mostly off the grid until I return to Pittsburgh on Wednesday night, 18 September.

p.s. Throughout these articles I will usually use the English spelling of Spanish place names. For instance “Seville” is the English spelling of “Sevilla.”

Close Encounters With Puffins

Puffin carrying fish to its nest burrow, June 2021, Skomer Island, Wales (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

14 June 2024

Six years ago when I traveled to Newfoundland to see Atlantic puffins (Fratercula arctica) we watched from a boat as puffins flew over us, dove next to us, and landed near their burrows at Witless Bay. I knew they were not large birds but I was not close enough to judge their size.

Carl Bovis filmed one at Skomer Island, Wales where there are over 42,000 nesting pairs from April to July: “To cheer everyone up, here’s a little Puffin going for a little walk.”

(embedded video by Carl Bovis on YouTube)

Imagine a puffin at your feet …

… or even closer.

embedded from RM Videos on YouTube

I wish I knew where this RM Video it was filmed!

Women Protecting Wildlife in Zimbabwe

Akashinga Rangers set off on a patrol to establish an overnight observation post at Phundundu, near Nyamakate, Zimbabwe (photo by Davina Jogi embedded from akashinga.org)

27 March 2024

Before Women’s History Month draws to a close here’s some recent women’s history in Zimbabwe.

Poaching is a persistent problem in southern Africa because the body parts of exotic wild animals find a lucrative market in the outside world. Without effective patrols it can even happen in a national park as for example 11 years ago, in 2013, when poachers poisoned 41 elephants at Hwange National Park by putting cyanide in their watering hole.

To stem the tide of animal deaths Australian born Damien Mander founded Akashinga in 2009 to train squads of men to protect wildlife in their home areas. The men were too easily corrupted and poaching continued.

In 2017 he recruited women, many of them single mothers or formerly abused. They named themselves Akashinga — The Brave Ones in the Shona language — and the program has been a great success, not only in terms of wildlife but within their communities.

This 2018 video from the BBC shows the first team of 16 rangers. Their full story is at BBC News: Meet the ‘Brave Ones’: The women saving Africa’s wildlife.

video embedded from BBC News on YouTube

Today Akashinga has a team of 500+ staff and 9.1 million acres under management in Zimbabwe, Botswana and Mozambique. They have reduced poaching by 80% and have seen an increase in wildlife of 399%.

Find out more at akashinga.org

p.s. The Akashinga organization was originally called the International Anti-Poaching Foundation (IAPF). They officially changed their name in 2023.

(photo at top embedded from akashinga.org; credits are in the captions)

How Big is Africa?

The True Size of Africa compared to contiguous U.S. (screenshot from thetruesize.com)

6 March 2024

While visiting southern Africa in January I was impressed at how large the continent is. Africa is huge – so big that the contiguous U.S. can fit inside it three times, as shown above.

For instance, the air distance from top to bottom of Africa, from Tunis, Tunisia to Cape Town, South Africa is …

4, 894 air miles from Cape Town to Tunis (map from Wikimedia Commons, red notes added)

… is farther than the trans-Pacific crossing from Seattle to Toyko.

4, 792 air miles from Seattle to Toyko, Japan (map from Wikimedia Commons, red notes added)

This animation shows how Africa compares in size to other continents.

Asia is the only continent larger than Africa.

World map of 7 continents (image from Wikimedia Commons)

And Asia is the only continent with a larger human population than Africa’s. Africa comes in second in both cases.

World population by Continent (screenshot from Wikipedia)

To get an idea of this on your own, try thetruesize.com to see how big things are.

(credits are in the captions)

Find The Lions!

Male lion found on night safari in Uganda (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Memories from my trip on Road Scholar’s Southern Africa Birding Safari, 19 Jan-2 Feb 2024.

3 March 2024

“Listen! Do you hear them? Lions are roaring very close to us, just beyond the buildings.”

Lion’s roar (sound from Pixabay)

We were about to eat dessert on our first night at Khulu Bush Camp when our guide, Sam Mushandu, alerted us to a sound in the night. We all fell silent to listen.

That afternoon our Road Scholar Birding Safari had been on our first game drive near Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe. We’d seen many birds but no lions … yet.

Game drive at Khulu Bush camp near Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

We had stopped to drink sundowners and watch the sun set in the wide valley of the Dete Vlei.

Sam describes our first sundowners, sunset at Dete Vlei near Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

After sunset, we returned to camp for dinner in the open air dining room.

Main building at Khulu Bush Camp, dining room at left end (photo from Khulu Bush camp, Amalinda Collection at wetu.com)

The sun had set two hours ago. It was quite dark. And there were lions outside. Roaring.

“Who wants to find the lions?” said Sam.

Caution flags went off in my brain but others raised their hands so I tamped down my doubts with the thought, “When will you ever get this opportunity again? Never. So go!”

We piled into the safari vehicle and zoomed down the dirt track. Sam was on the radio with James, a Khulu guide who had gone out ahead of us to find the lions. Suddenly an elephant loomed in the dark, blocking the road. We slowed and it stepped into the bush.

Night safari with an elephant blocking the road, Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Frank Koch)

Then another elephant, then three, then four.

Night safari, three elephants, Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Frank Koch)

Surprised by crazy humans pelting through the dark the elephants appeared to be telling each other, “Hey! that truck is coming down the track. You’re in my way! Move into the bush!” It struck me as funny and I couldn’t stop laughing.

Night safari, four or more elephants, Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Frank Koch)

The elephants melted into the bush, then James radioed that he had found the lions, one male and two females. We turned around and headed toward them.

By the time we arrived the male had moved off but we found both females squinting in the bright search light. My photo shows how far away the first one was.

Night safari, female lion near Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Fellow traveler Frank Koch got better pictures than I did. Here are both females.

Night safari, female lion near Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Frank Koch)
Night safari, 2nd female lion near Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Frank Koch)

What an unforgettable experience!

Grateful thanks to our guide Sam Mushandu, to James (guide at Khulu Bush Camp) who knows the habits of lions, Khulu Bush Camp itself for a wonderful stay, and Road Scholar for arranging the tour. And thank you to Frank Koch for his photos of our night safari.

p.s. In case you’re wondering what a lion looks like when it roars, here’s a video from Brookfield Zoo. Keep in mind that both males and females roar so all three may have been speaking that night in the bush on 24 January 2024.

video embedded from Brookfield Zoo Chicago on YouTube

(photos from Wikimedia Commons (night lion closeup at top), Kate St. John, Frank Koch, and Khulu Bush Camp via wetu.com)

I Am Not An Antelope

Pronghorn male in Oregon (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

29 February 2024

Though we call this animal a pronghorn antelope (Antilocapra americana), it is not an antelope at all.

While I was on Road Scholar’s Southern Africa Birding Safari last month I saw seven species of antelopes (not my photos; these are from Wikimedia Commons).

Because the pronghorn’s appearance is similar, I can see why he’s called an antelope, but his nearest relatives are other African animals, the giraffe and okapi.

Giraffe in South Africa (photo from Wikimedia Commons)
An okapi (photo from Wikimedia Commons)
An okapi (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Pronghorns probably resemble antelopes because they run like them, a trait they acquired to escape cheetahs(!). Cheetahs used to be in North America but disappeared a long time ago.

video embedded from American Prairie on YouTube

The pronghorn never stopped running.

Elephants Close to Us

Elephants drink at the Chobe River, Botswana, 28 Jan 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

20 February 2024

When I signed up for Road Scholar’s Southern Africa Birding Safari (19 Jan-2 Feb 2024) I knew I would see hundreds of Life Birds but did not realize there would be an added bonus. Our tour was in the KAZA region, the Kavango-Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area, where wildlife roams freely. KAZA is home to the largest population of African elephants in the world.

KAZA Projects ArcGIS map from World Wildlife Fund, Germany — screenshot annotated with our locations

We saw elephants every day in the areas marked on the KAZA map above. Here is what I learned.

African bush elephants, also called African savanna elephants (Loxodonta africana) are an endangered species having gone from a high of more than 2 million in 1800 to a low of 1,000 in the early 1900s. Now they number about 45,000 but are threatened by human encroachment, poaching, big game hunting (which prizes large tusks thus removing the best genes) and climate change.

Elephants live near fresh water because they must drink and bath so much. Climate change brings drought. Drought kills elephants. This summer there is a drought in southern Africa because of El Niño.

African elephants eat trees, leaves and even the cambium layer of bark. To chew this material they have four molars which they replace throughout their lives until they lose their last molar at age 40-60. Without molars they starve, a common cause of death. (This also happens to white-tailed deer who starve when their teeth wear out.) Tusks are modified teeth and both males and females have them.

We learned about elephant behavior by observing them.

Khulu Bush Camp, Zimbabwe:

Elephants lived close to us at Khulu Bush Camp. At night they roamed between our tent buildings; I could hear them munching. At midday they came out of the forest to the watering holes near camp to drink and coat themselves with mud against the 97°F afternoon heat.

The camp provides a pool of water and minerals attractive to elephants near the dining area which is elevated and protected by a small boma. We could safely view the elephants as they came quite close.

The elephants were close at hand at Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

The females and young elephants move to the watering hole in a matriarchal herd.

Elephants at Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (video by Kate St. John)

At first only one elephant drank from the pool.

Elephants at Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (video by Kate St. John)

Then the crowd came close.

Elephants at Khulu Bush Camp, 24 Jan 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Two days later a bachelor group showed up while an older male was drinking at the pool. The older male challenged them with a stern look. The younger males backed off.

Male elephant standoff at Khulu Bush Camp, 26 Jan 2024(video by Kate St. John)

Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe:

On safari at Hwange National Park we saw a male elephant hanging out with a lone female. She disappeared into the forest while he appeared to be annoyed that we showed up. Perhaps he was guarding her as his own.

Chobe National Park, Botswana:

From a pontoon boat on the Chobe River we saw wildlife walking the shore at Chobe National Park. In late afternoon a small herd of elephants came to the river to drink and douse themselves with water. As this mother left the river we saw her baby nursing.

All these photos were taken with my cellphone! What a privilege to see African elephants so close.

p.s. Despite the threats to elephants there is one activity that helps them. Wildlife tourism is the #3 industry in the region & it prompts governments and people to protect wildlife.

Dr. Livingstone, I Presume

Dr. David Livingstone monument at Victoria Falls National Park, Zimbabwe, 22 Jan 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Reflections on Road Scholar’s Southern Africa Birding Safari, 19 Jan – 2 Feb 2024

18 February 2024

This statue of Scottish explorer Dr. David Livingstone stands in Zimbabwe at the western end of Victoria Falls. After African independence, European monuments were removed and European towns renamed but Livingstone’s statue still stands, the falls still bear the name he gave them(2), and the nearest town across the river is Livingstone, Zambia.

Twenty years ago, two attempts were made to remove Livingstone’s statue but “resistance to the removals from the local community has ensured that Livingstone’s statue remains where it was first erected, gazing sternly out towards Devil’s Cataract.(1)

Our Zimbabwean guide pointed to a word carved on the monument that is key to Livingstone’s legacy in Africa.

Liberator.

Dr. David Livingstone, 1864 (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

In America we think of Livingstone as a great explorer but in Africa it is his never-ending fight to end the slave trade that holds him in African hearts. Livingstone went to Africa as a Christian missionary doctor and fell in love with exploring, ultimately mapping three long journeys in southern and eastern Africa covering 40,000 miles(2).

Journeys of Dr. David Livingstone, final journey in red (map from Wikimedia Commons)

During his second expedition to the Zambezi River (1858-1864) he witnessed the horrors of the East African Arab-Swahili slave trade and vowed to end it. Men, women and children were captured in the interior and marched to trading posts on the Indian Ocean coast, one of which was Zanzibar a British colony ruled by Arabs.

East African slave trade (image from Wikimedia Commons)

Livingstone reasoned that if he became famous for finding the source of the Nile he could influence the British government to end the slave trade so he returned to Africa in 1866 to accomplish both goals.

Five years later, in the absence of news, Livingstone was presumed dead or lost. Instead he was still exploring, very weak and sick with malaria and without quinine to treat it because someone stole his medical kit. Meanwhile he wrote letters to Britain describing the slave trade but the slavers were the only ones available to carry his letters to the coast. Knowing that Livingstone was against slavery, they delivered only one of his 44 letters.

Livingstone’s disappearance was such a great mystery that the New York Herald sent journalist Henry Morton Stanley to Africa where he caught up with Livingstone at Ujiji in October 1871 and said, “Dr. Livingstone, I presume.”

Henry Morton Stanley greets Dr. David Livingstone at Ujiji (image from Wikimedia Commons)

Livingstone did not want to leave Africa so Stanley took Livingstone’s dispatches to Britain where they exposed the appalling massacres and cruelty of the slave trade.

British reaction was swift but Livingstone did not live to see it. “One month after his death, Great Britain signed a treaty with Sultan Barghash of Zanzibar, halting the slave trade in that realm. The infamous slave market of Zanzibar was closed forever.(2)

More than any of his contemporaries, Livingstone succeeded in seeing Africa through African eyes.

Princeton University Library: David Livingstone, 1813-1873

p.s. In the U.S. most of us don’t realize that the West African slave trade that our country participated in was not the only source of slaves. Britain outlawed the trans-Atlantic slave trade in 1807 but it continued elsewhere. For instance, Mauritania in West Africa did not impose penalties on its local slave trade until 2007. Today slavery persists in some parts of Africa. Read about Slavery in Contemporary Africa here.

(credits are in the captions) Footnotes on sources.

  1. Information on Dr. David Livingstone’s Statue, Siyabona Africa website.
  2. Summary of Livingstone’s life, Princeton University Library.
    • “Victoria Falls was the only site in Africa that Livingstone named with English words.”

Favorite Birds in Southern Africa

13 February 2024

Road Scholar’s Southern Africa Birding Safari was wonderful on so many levels.

Before the trip began, I expected to see many Life Birds. The southern region from the Zambezi River to the Cape has more breeding species than the US and Canada combined. Add to that the winter migrants from Europe and Asia and there were so many birds to see every day. In 13 days of birding I saw or heard 233 species, 207 of which were Life Birds. See the details in my eBird Trip Report here.

My favorite birds were hard to whittle down, chosen for a variety of reasons. Some because I had a pent up desire to see them. Some for their beauty. Some for their behavior. 14 are in the slideshow (thanks to Wikimedia photos) and described below.

No. 1! The secretarybird (Sagittarius serpentarius) is declining and endangered so it was a real treat to see one. These elegant raptors walk slowly scanning the ground for food while their long scaly legs protect them from the venomous snakes they eat for a living. [If the video below spins without playing, click on the YouTube logo at bottom right to watch it on YouTube.]

(video from WildlifeVideoChannel on YouTube)

No. 2: I’ve been wanting to see a Kori bustard ever since I wrote about them in 2009.

No. 3 & 4: Flamingos! We saw greater (Phoenicopterus roseus) and lesser (Phoeniconaias minor) flamingos at Marievale. Greater flamingos have pink beaks, lessers have dark beaks.

No. 5: The black heron (Egretta ardesiaca) looks like a snowy egret in charcoal black. He throws shade to catch his prey.

video embedded from Earth Touch on YouTube

No. 6: I wanted to see an Amur falcon (Falco amurensis) after I learned about their amazing migration last October.

No. 7: I’ve always liked the French name of the bateleur (Terathopius ecaudatus), an endangered serpent eagle that “tumbles” in aerial acrobatics. In flight bateleurs are easy to identify because their toes stick out beyond their short tails.

No 8: We found a dark chanting goshawk (Melierax metabates) holding a lizard above us that he had caught for lunch. Here’s how he chants.

No. 9: Southern carmine bee eater (Merops nubicoides): Beautiful and acrobatic.

No. 10: Crimson-breasted shrike (Laniarius atrococcineus): Gorgeous in red. (eBird calls it a gonolek. Such confusion!)

No. 11: African paradise flycatcher (Terpsiphone viridis): Colorful and extravagant.

No. 12: The wire-tailed swallows (Hirundo smithii) were an unexpected joy. As we boated up and down the Chobe River the swallows flew around the boat. Sometimes they flew with us, just under the tarp roof, or landed on the edge.

No. 13: Red-billed oxpeckers (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) were easily found on mammals, especially impalas. We saw quite a few perched upside down on a giraffe, plus a pair nesting at Hwange National Park.

No. 14: Male pin-tailed whydahs (Vidua macroura) are boring brown in the non-breeding season but during southern Africa’s summer they are snazzy with long thin tail feathers. At Marievale a male called just outside the bird hide window, then displayed in front of us when a female showed up. Such a show off!

Video embedded from Leovim Agustim on YouTube

I’ll be telling you more about our trip in the weeks ahead: birds, animals, landscape, people, culture, history, and weather.

Though we did not see a leopard we saw the “leopard of birds.” Stay tuned.

(photos from Wikimedia Commons)