Category Archives: Southern Spain

Snails On All The Posts and Plants

White garden snails encrust a fencepost near Tarifa, Spain, 11 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

7 October 2024

One of the strangest things we saw on the WINGS Spain in Autumn tour last month were many snail encrusted fenceposts and plants along the road. The snails were everywhere in the dry hot areas of southern Spain. Why?

Snails as far as the eye can see near Tarifa, Spain, 11 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

White garden snails or Mediterranean snails (Theba pisana) are an edible land snail native to the Mediterranean. We saw them up on posts and plants because we were visiting during the hot dry season when the snails are aestivating to escape the heat.

Discovering Doñana describes their life cycle:

Our land snails are mainly nocturnal, since at night the presence of predators decreases and the environmental conditions are more conducive to them by significantly increasing the humidity of the environment. During the favorable time of the year, with mild temperatures and adequate environmental humidity, land snails feed in the herbaceous layer closest to the ground, being able to remain active for a good part of the day as well.

But when spring gives way to summer, temperature increases and the humidity decreases, producing a truly hostile environment to them. …. To overcome these unfavorable conditions, which usually begin in June, land snails enter a state of dormancy … [called] aestivation.

Discovering Doñana: The long nap of the snails

The snails climb up where the temperature is cooler above ground. Then they close their shells with a sticky secretion that adheres to their chosen plant or post, leaving a tiny hole for breathing. The snails go to sleep.

Theba pisana on a reed at the shore near Tarifa, Spain, 12 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Their high perch keeps them safe from ground predators but not from birds that stop by for a snack. Discovering Doñana shows photos of a kestrel and a lark eating snails on fenceposts.

Theba pisana on dried weeds near Brazo del Este, Spain, 7 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)
Every white dot is a snail! Near Tahivilla, Spain, 11 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

The snails’ proclivity for climbing and latching on is how they’ve accidentally traveled on international freight. Outside the Mediterranean they become an invasive agricultural pest. In Florida they are considered “the worst potential agricultural pest of the helicid snails.”

When the season changes and the weather becomes cooler and more humid, the snails come down. If you visit southern Spain in the winter you won’t see them.

Read more about white garden snails in their native habitat at Discovering Doñana: The long nap of the snails.

Black Terns Here and There

Black tern in flight, Missouri, May 2017 (photo by Andy Reago & Chrissy McClarren via Wikimedia Commons)

30 September 2024

Yesterday afternoon a black tern (Chlidonias niger) made Allegheny County’s Rare Bird Alert when it was spotted at the main pond at Imperial. Immediately I thought of the black terns I’ve seen during spring migration at the Great Lakes with gorgeous black heads and bellies.

But black terns are not black at this time of year. I didn’t know this until we saw them from the beach at Chipiona, Spain on the WINGS Spain in Autumn tour.

In early September their bellies and faces turn white, like this one in Chipiona in early September 2024.

As time passes they become even paler. If you happened to see the black tern at Imperial yesterday it would look more like this.

Black tern in Ohio, Sept 2014 (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Black terns live in both the New and Old Worlds. The North American subspecies (C. n. surinamensis) spends the winter on the coasts of Central and South America. The Eurasian subspecies (C. n. niger) migrates across the Mediterranean and the Atlantic coast to Africa.

Black tern range map from Wikimedia Commons

They don’t look like “black” terns in non-breeding plumage. This group was filmed in January 2018, probably in Africa.

embedded video by Michael Autumn on YouTube

The Shade Horse

Donkey, sheep and a horse at Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales, Spain, 13 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

29 September 2024

On our WINGS Spain in Autumn birding tour we visited Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales on 13 September to see the birds and habitats of the cork tree forest. Spain’s Natural Parks allow grazing so we often saw cattle but when we stopped at Mirador Puerto de Ojén (Ojén Pass viewpoint) we found a donkey, several sheep and a chestnut horse.

It was hot. Most of the animals huddled in the shade cast by the Natural Park sign. Those who couldn’t fit their bodies into that crowded spot hung their heads in it. But the chestnut horse stoically stood in the sun. One sheep lay beneath it.

Sheep sleeps in the shade cast by The Shade Horse, Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales, Spain, 13 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

As we walked around scanning the sky for birds, the sign-shade sheep walked over to the horse and tried to fit into its shadow. There was only enough shade for their heads.

All the sheep try to fit into the shade cast by The Shade Horse in Spain, 13 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

The Shade Horse walked away and the extra sheep were out of luck. The companion sheep moved with the horse, constantly in his shadow. “We’re going to eat?” asked the sheep. “Fine. There’s something here in your shadow.”

The Shade Horse and one of his followers, Parque Natural Los Alcornocales, Spain, 13 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Did the horse feel used? Or did he appreciate his friend? Whatever works to stay cool.


p.s. The donkey was very friendly, more interested in us than the shade.

Friendly donkey comes close while Oli Reville and Jean Bickal take photos at Mirador Puerto de Ojén, 13 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)
Myrna Beards pats the donkey while our guide Oli Reville scans the sky at Mirador Puerto de Ojén, 13 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

“Take me with you?”

Donkey examines the van at Mirador Puerto de Ojén, 13 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Watching Dolphins in The Strait

A pod of common dolphins in the Gulf of California (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

24 September 2024

On the WINGS Spain in Autumn birding tour we missed a pelagic voyage in the Gulf of Cadiz because of high winds at sea. There were no weather problems, however, during our whale watching tour in the Strait of Gibraltar.

Embarking from Tarifa we motored almost all the way to Morocco — this close to Tangier.

View of Morocco near Tangier from a boat in the Strait of Gibraltar, 12 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Along the way we saw pods of common dolphins, bottlenose dolphins, and a pilot whale which is actually a large dolphin.

In the U.S. the word dolphin is used casually as a synonym for the common bottlenose dolphin Tursiops truncatus — i.e. “Flipper.” But common dolphins are a different species, Delphinus delphis, about half the size of bottlenose dolphins.

Comparing size of common dolphin and bottlenose dolphin to humans and each other (images from Wikimedia Commons)

Several pods of common dolphins jumped high and played in the water. They came close to the boat to swim in the bow wave. Jean Bickal took a video of them through the anchor portal.

Common dolphins riding the bow wave, Strait of Gibraltar, 12 Sept 2024 (embedded video by Jean Bickal)

Common dolphins occur in temperate and tropical seas around world but it was a privilege to see this species at the Strait of Gibraltar. The Mediterranean population of common dolphins has been listed as Endangered since 2003(*).

p.s. While on the boat we also saw six bird species though I missed seeing one of them: European storm-petrel.

(*) IUCN says the 2003 assessment needs to be updated.

The Spotless Starling

Spotless starling, late autumn in Madrid (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

22 September 2024

How many times have you seen a bird and thought, “Oh, it’s just a starling.” Well, in Spain it’s not just a starling, it’s a spotless starling (Sturnus unicolor). We saw this Life Bird nearly every day on the WINGS Spain in Autumn birding tour.

Spotless starling range map from Wikimedia Commons

Spotless starlings are very similar to our familiar European (or common) starlings. They sing wiry songs and make scratchy noises. They hang out on wires and squabble with each other. They choose similar nest sites to common starlings and will even nest communally with them. The big difference is that spotless starlings have no spots. They don’t have the “stars” that gave the starling its name.

Spotless starlings look oily black in the breeding season …

Male spotless starling, Seville, Spain (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

… and very faintly spotted in the non-breeding season.

Spotless starling has small spots in autumn, Portugal (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Meanwhile, common or European starlings (Sturnis vulgaris) are spotted all year long and are found around the world because humans introduced them.

Common or European starling (photo by airwolfhoud via Wikimedia Commons)

In 2023 a team of scientists used genetics to determine the Global invasion history and native decline of the common starling: insights through genetics. (See map below.) The common starling’s greatest success has been their invasion of North America.

Common starling worldwide range map from open access: Global invasion history and native decline of the common starling: insights through genetics

Interestingly, I didn’t see any common starlings in southern Spain though the map says they are there.

We take European starlings for granted because they are common and live close to us. It was hard not to dismiss spotless starlings with the same “ho hum” after I’d seen them many days in a row. 😉

(photos from Wikimedia Commons; click on the captions to see the originals)

Seen in Southern Spain

Beautiful valley of Serrania de Ronda, 14 Sept 2024 (photo by Kate St. John) We saw an Iberian grey shrike here.

21 September 2024

“Seen Last Week” goes back today to 7-17 September for my best photos of the WINGS Spain in Autumn birding tour in southern Andalusia. Some sites are missed entirely in the slideshow because my photos were lousy.

Scenes include:

  • The salt pans at Sanlucar de Barrameda where we saw shorebirds and flamingos.
  • A beautiful cat watched us eat dinner in Sanlucar. Its subtle colors reminded me of my cat Emmalina.
  • Great day of hawk watching on 10 September at El Algarrobo and Cazalla near Tarifa.
  • 3 photos: Views of the Strait of Gibraltar, Tarifa and the Torre (watch tower) de Guadalmesi.
  • Every day we were birding as early as possible under hot, bright sun. No rain. Temperature reached 98°F some days.
  • Cattle were often present on the dirt roads where we looked for birds.
  • 4 photos: Dry, dry, dry landscapes, even in the mountains.
  • View of Montejaque, one of the Pueblos Blancos (White Villages) near Grazalema.
  • 3 scenes from Ronda where the cliffs surrounding the town are steep! (No I will not get near that railing)
  • Spain is the world’s 1st or 2nd largest producer of olives. Olive groves everywhere.
  • Dried lake bed with a bit of salty water is a good place to look for flamingos near Fuente de Piedra.
  • Narrow streets in Osuna as we walk to dinner on our last night together.

Wind power is BIG in Spain as seen in this video of wind turbines near Tarifa. During heavy bird migration some turbines are turned off to prevent collisions by hawks and storks.

Wind power turbines near Tarifa, Spain, Sept 2024 (video by Kate St. John)

Favorite Moment in Spain

Greater flamingos flying above the Strait of Gibraltar at Tarifa, Spain, 11 Sep 2024, Morocco in the background (photo by Jean Bickal)

20 September 2024

On the morning of 11 September our WINGS Spain in Autumn tour arrived early at the southernmost point of Spain, Isla de las Palomas at Tarifa. Yeray Seminario, our guide from Birding the Strait, had arranged in advance for us to pass through the gates of the fort (shown below) to watch birds from the water’s edge at the Strait of Gibraltar.

Entrance road to the fort at Isla de Las Palomas, 11 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

Inside the fortress we walked this path and climbed the steps ahead. Yeray briefly looks for birds from this vantage point.

Lighthouse at Isla de Tarifa, Spain. Yeray on the walkway to the hide, steps in the distance, 11 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

At the wall’s crest we saw our destination, a bird hide near the water.

Bird hide at Isla de Las Palomas, 11 Sep 2024 (photo by Kate St. John)

At El Estrecho Parc Naturel–Isla de Las Palomas, Cádiz (eBird hotspot for this location) we saw 15 species. Checklist is online at https://ebird.org/checklist/S194711541.

Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus) 75
Rock Pigeon (Feral Pigeon) (Columba livia (Feral Pigeon)) 1
Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) 1
Sanderling (Calidris alba) 3
Pomarine Jaeger (Stercorarius pomarinus) 1
Great Skua (Stercorarius skua) 2
Yellow-legged Gull (Larus michahellis) 350
Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus) 12
Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis) 1
Cory’s Shearwater (Calonectris diomedea) X At least 1000 past towards Atlantic.
Balearic Shearwater (Puffinus mauretanicus) 25
Northern Gannet (Morus bassanus) 2
Western Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus) 1
Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus) 2
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) 10

As we arrived a feeding frenzy — probably a school of fish — drew in shearwaters, gulls, a jaegar and two great skuas.

Three harriers flew low across the water on their way to Africa.

But the biggest surprise was a flock of 75 greater flamingos flying past us along the coast with Africa as their backdrop. Fellow traveler Jean Bickal captured the start of the flock and posted this photo on Facebook. (Photo at top is cropped.)

Greater flamingos flying above the Strait of Gibraltar at Tarifa, Spain, 11 Sep 2024. backdrop is Morocco (photo by Jean Bickal)

We all agreed that this was the best moment of the trip. Thrilling!

p.s. Here’s what they would have looked like if we’d seen them taking off. This is a Wikimedia photo on the Mediterranean at Tunisia.

Greater flamingos in flight at Tunisia (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Hoopoe!

Hoopoe! (photo from Wikimedia Commons. Photo location not specified but this one may be African)

17 September 2024: Day 11, WINGS Spain in Autumn. On the plains east of Seville, then our tour concludes at noon in Seville. Click here to see (generally) where I am today. NOTE: This article was written in August.

Today is our last birding day in Spain and I’ve already seen four hoopoes.

Utterly unmistakable orange bird with zebra-striped wings, a Chinese fan of a crest (usually held closed, but often raised just after landing), and a rapier of a bill. Favors semiopen habitats such as heathland, farmland, orchards, grassy lawns, where it feeds on the ground, probing with its long bill for insects

eBird Species account: Eurasian hoopoe (Upupa epops)

Hoopoes are large in my imagination — perhaps because of their crests — but they are only the size of American robins though their shape is very different. This video of captive hoopoes in Dubai shows their size relative to a human hand.

Hoopoes were named for their song …

… and are so eye-catching that humans have both revered and feared them. Hoopoes were sacred in Ancient Egypt and a symbol of virtue in Persia yet harbingers of war in Scandanavia and foreshadowers of death in Estonia. Was it the hoopoe’s behavior that prompted these opinions?

Hoopoes nest in cavities where the female lays 2-12 eggs that hatch 24 hours apart in the order they were laid. The nestlings can therefore range in age from 1 to 12+ days old but the youngest don’t last long.

Eurasian hoopoe chick looking out of nest hole (photo from Wikimedia Commons)
Early warning: Some gruesome news ahead.

A March report at Science.org describes how researchers in Granada Province observed a gruesome behavior in hoopoe families that is quite unusual among birds.

In the first of two studies, Juan José Soler at the Experimental Station of Arid Zones in Spain showed that “hoopoe mothers frequently feed younger chicks to older chicks. And he suspected that hoopoe mothers laid extra eggs with the intention of using the hatchlings as food.”

The second study bore this out. In settings where food was plentiful during egg laying female hoopoes laid more eggs and later used the youngest chicks as food for the older ones. Interestingly, nests with high cannibalism fledged more chicks that those without.

Beyond the strangeness (dare I say horror?) of cannibalism offered by one’s mother is the fact that hoopoes do not have beaks and claws equipped to kill small birds. “That might be why, says Soler, mother hoopoes often grab the unlucky chick and shove it into the mouth of an older chick, which swallows it whole.” — Science.org.: Watch Out! This colorful bird raises a nest of cannibals.

This behavior may sound familiar to those of you who remember the peregrine mother nicknamed Hope who nested at the Cathedral of Learning in 2016-2019. Every spring Hope killed and ate one or two of her chicks and offered them as food to the older chicks. Now that I know of the hoopoe’s unusual behavior, Hope deserves some extra o’s in her name –> Hoopoe.

Read more about the studies at Science.org: Watch Out! This colorful bird raises a nest of cannibals.

p.s. Despite the strangeness, I still like hoopoes.

In UV Light This Bird Can Glow Red

Male great bustard working up to a display (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

16 September 2024: Day 10, Fuente de Piedra, Osuna, and the plains east of Sevilla, WINGS Spain in Autumn Click here to see (generally) where I am today.

One of the target species during our tour’s final days is a very large bird that lives on the steppes and grasslands of Spain. The great bustard (Otis tarda) is the most sexually dimorphic of all birds in terms of size. The males can weigh as much as 42 pounds, are the second heaviest flying bird on earth(*), and average 2.48 times the weight of females. They also stand 3+ feet tall so if one’s out there in the grass we should be able to see it.

Unfortunately the colorful range map below is a bit misleading. The great bustard (Otis tarda) is Endangered and in low numbers everywhere except Spain. According to Wikipedia, “More than half the global population is found in central Spain with around 30,000 individuals.” Some locations in Europe have as few as 100 to 1,000 birds.

Range of the Great Bustard (map from Wikimedia Commons)

Great bustards are famous for their courtship displays. In March the males gather on a lek to joust and puff their feathers.

Females are attracted by features of the display that we humans cannot hear or see. For instance, bustards make low frequency sounds that carry a long distance in open country. Perhaps she hears him from far away.

Female great bustard (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Bustards’ ability to see UV light plays a part in their courtship. The males’ reddish/brownish feathers contain a pigment called porphyrin, chemically related to hemoglobin, that shows intense red fluorescence under ultraviolet light, as seen in an experiment below.

Experiment showing fluorescence of porphyrin (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

When a male great bustard fluffs his throat feathers the females see bright glowing magenta in UV light.

Porphyrin pigment breaks down during exposure to sunlight so this feature is lost in older feathers as male breeding plumage ages. By the time the glow is gone, the males don’t need it. Courtship is over until next year.


(*) p.s. The heaviest bird capable of flight is the Kori bustard.

Today is the Day For Crows With Red Beaks

Red-billed chough, headshot (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

15 September 2024: Day 9, Ronda and the Sierra Grazalema Mountains, WINGS Spain in Autumn Click here to see (generally) where I am today.

It’s been nine years since I first became fascinated by the long curved bills of the “crows with red beaks.” Today I am in red-billed chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax) territory in Spain, home of this Life Bird.

Red-billed choughs, pronounced “chuff“, are native corvids in Europe, Asia and North Africa but they are essentially sedentary. They don’t migrate so I have to visit their homeland if I want to see them.

Their favorite habitats are coastal cliffs and mountain meadows strewn with boulders where they poke their beaks into grass and soil to find insects. They will also forage in grassy areas in mountain towns.

Red-billed choughs roost on the cliffs of Ronda where we are staying two nights. They arrive before sunset in the cliff valley spanned by the Puente Nuevo bridge, right of center in the photo below.

Ronda and Puente Nuevo bridge (photo from Wikimedia Commons)

Here they are in a similar setting in Cadiz.

Just like crows, choughs assemble in flocks and make a lot of noise. However, choughs sound different from crows. Their name “chough” is supposed to mimic the sound but nothing can quite compare.

Red-billed choughs at Parque Regional Sierra del Carche, Spain (video embedded from Canal Natura on YouTube)

In North America people claim to have seen red-billed choughs in the wild but we don’t have them. Read about it in this vintage article, especially the comments.