This morning we’re at the coast in lovely weather. But out to sea, beyond the continental shelf, the wind is blowing hard and the sea is too rough for our planned pelagic birding tour in the Gulf of Cadiz in a boat that comfortably holds 12 people.
No problem. There are plenty of birds to see from land, some of which we would have seen on the boat and I’m willing to pass up an opportunity to learn about seasickness.
One of birds we cannot see from land is the critically endangered Balearic shearwater (Puffinus mauretanicus).
The Balearic Shearwater is one of the rarest birds in Europe, being one of just two species there to be listed as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List. Its successful conservation will require considerable effort, across country borders. As its name implies, as a breeder this shearwater is confined to the Spanish-owned Balearic Islands in the western Mediterranean, where its population is usually estimated at just 1,800–2,500 breeding pairs (of which about 50% nest on Mallorca).
… Counts at sea (especially through the Strait of Gibraltar) suggest it is possibly more numerous, which has led to a revised estimate of 24,000–26,500 individuals.
This bird might be really rare. Or there might be 10 times as many as we thought.
Balearic shearwaters are regularly seen in autumn in the Gulf of Cadiz as they leave their breeding grounds on the Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean …
To me shearwaters all look the same so I would never have known I was looking at a Balearic shearwater without a guide. They’re a little like confusing fall warblers. 😉
7 September 2024: Day 1, East bank of the Guadalquivir River and birding en route to Chipiona, WINGS Spain in Autumn Click here to see my evening destination today
Today we follow the Guadalquivir River from Seville to the the ocean at Chipiona, birding along the way. This 51 mile stretch of river used to be an inlet of the Atlantic Ocean, but by the time of the Romans it was Lacus Ligustinus, a salty lake. Since then the lake has silted up and become a big marsh with a river running through it.
The Guadalquivir River has many twists and turns and some oxbow lakes but the downriver section (highlighted on map) has been straightened and channelized for navigation to Seville.
Meanwhile the marsh on both sides of the river is crisscrossed with canals to drain it for agriculture. The former eastern branch of the Guadalquivir River (Brazo del Este del Guadalquivir) is cut off from the main channel. In 1989 4,000 acres of it, mainly following the old river, were protected as a natural area.
embedded Goggle map of Brazo del Estes del Gualdalquivir
eBird and our tour description both indicate we’ll find marbled duck, white-faced duck, red-knobbed coot, Spanish eagle, greater flamingo and white stork at the marsh.
Marbled duck
White faced duck
Red-knobbed coot
Spanish eagle, adult
Greater flamingos
White stork
… plus the hoped-for star of the show, the collared pratincole. I saw this species loafing on river banks in Botswana but I have never seen it fly.
6 September 2024: Day 0, Arrive in Seville, Spain WINGS Spain in Autumn Click here to see (generally) where I am today.
Today I will land twice on the Iberian peninsula, at Lisbon, Portugal and Seville, Spain. It is the only home of the Spanish eagle* (Aquila adalberti), pictured above.
If all goes as planned I will land in Seville at 3:40pm Central European Summer Time (9:40am in Pittsburgh). Tonight our group will spend a night near the airport, then set out early tomorrow for our birding adventure. Since we won’t have time to study Spain’s culture and history, I’ll use this opportunity to describe the towns where we’ll be staying, marked on the WINGS map below.
Our trip is entirely within Andalusia, the autonomous community that covers southern Spain. Located between Europe, Africa, the Atlantic Ocean, and the Mediterranean Sea, Andalusia has attracted immigrants, traders and conquerors throughout its history including ancient Iberians, Celts, Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths and Arabs. We will see their influences in the towns we visit.
Seville
Points A, B & G on the map, our tour will spend one night near the airport at the start of the trip. At the end I will stay one night at the same hotel before my 6:30am flight home the next day. We will not see much of Seville.
Seville is the fourth largest city in Spain and its only inland port. Founded in the 8th century BC in the Guadalquivir River Valley (the “frying pan of Spain”) summers are long, hot and dry (average 97°F in July, 88°F in September). Seville’s history is evident in its famous buildings, two of which are pictured here — one Catholic, one Muslim.
Chipiona is on the Atlantic coast near the mouth of the Guadalquivir River where the Salmedina Rocks are a hazard to navigation. The Romans built a lighthouse there and named the town for the Roman Consul who commissioned it. The present lighthouse, built in 1867, is the tallest in Spain and 5th tallest in the world.
Chipiona’s riverfront is packed with ancient buildings including Chipiona Castle, built in the 13th century.
The town has a popular beach on its Atlantic waterfront where highs in July are 84°F, in September 81°F. Needless to say, the birds are on the river side.
The southernmost point in Europe and gateway to Africa, Tarifa is only 8.1 miles (13 km) from Morocco across the Strait of Gibraltar. The wind blows here. A lot! Which means warm weather can feel downright cold.
There are two types of wind in Tarifa: the windsurfer-friendly Levante (that comes in from the east, usually warmer and at it’s best during summer) and the Poniente (blowing in from the west, cooler from the ocean and more common during winter), which is best for kite surfers. Due to the force and consistency of windy days, Tarifa has hundreds of wind turbines. Interesting fact: in 2013, Spain was the first country in the world to rely on wind energy as its top energy source. Visiting Tarifa, and experiencing the velocity (and damage) of the wind firsthand, it’s no wonder why.
Because of wind and location, Tarifa is also a great place to watch fall migration. The bird observation post described at this link is at the pin drop on the map. Zoom the map to see the surrounding area.
We will also take a pelagic tour (see example at Birding the Strait) and go on a whale watch.
In the province of Malaga, Ronda is at 2,460 ft so its climate is cooler. July high temperatures average 83°F, highs in September are 77°F.
Ronda is known for its cliffside location and a deep canyon that carries the Guadalevín River and divides the town. It is one of the towns and villages that are included in the Sierra de las Nieves National Park.
Though Osuna is built on a hilltop it is in the Guadalquivir watershed with hot-weather plains below. High temperatures in Osuna average 94°F in July and 85°F in September. Osuna is our last stop before returning home via Seville Airport.
* The bird pictured at top is an immature Spanish eagle coming in for a landing. Our trip checklist has it as the “Spanish imperial eagle.” Birds of the World lists the Spanish eagle and the Imperial eagle as a separate species.
For the past two years I’ve watched videos of fall migration at the Strait of Gibraltar and have longed to witness it for myself. Today I’m following my dream and flying to Spain to join the WINGS Birding Tour: Spain in Autumn, 7-17 September 2024.
For the migratory birds of western Europe the Iberian peninsula (Spain + Portugal) is the last stop before Africa on fall migration. The peninsula naturally funnels birds to its southernmost point, Tarifa, only 8.1 miles (13 km) from Morocco.
Now that it’s early September the weekly numbers are lower but the diversity is higher with the addition of many other species including black storks, booted eagles, short-toed eagles, marsh harriers, osprey and lesser kestrels. Meanwhile there are plenty of migratory songbirds feeding and resting during the day before they cross the Strait at night.
Our trip will take us in a big circle from Seville to Tarifa and back. Along the way we’ll visit marshes, mountains and coastal hotspots. We’ll make two pelagic trips and spend five days and nights in Tarifa.
The trip checklist includes 192 species, 73 of which are potential Life Birds(*). The only reason my “potential” list is not higher is that I saw many migratory European birds in Southern Africa in January.
Here are 12 of the many species I hope to see. Yes, white storks are on this list because I missed them in Africa.
Red-crested pochard
Alpine swift, Barcelona
Black-bellied sand grouse, male and female
White stork in flight, Madrid
Northern bald ibis, Morocco
Egyptian vulture
Short-toed snake-eagle
Iberian green woodpecker
Red-billed chough
Common nightingale
Blue rock thrush, male
White-throated dipper
(photos from Wikimedia Commons)
Because of the 6-hour time zone difference and our all-day birding schedule I’ve written 14 days of articles in advance. I’ll post to Facebook and X (Twitter) when I get a chance but I can’t guarantee it. If you don’t see me on social media, look for my latest posts here on the blog’s home page. For now, I’m mostly off the grid until I return to Pittsburgh on Wednesday night, 18 September.
p.s. Throughout these articles I will usually use the English spelling of Spanish place names. For instance “Seville” is the English spelling of “Sevilla.”
